News · Pinion Watch Company

Pinion's Pure is a 38mm hand-wound with the date parts left out, nine colours at £1,350

Pinion's 38mm British hand-wound runs a Sellita SW261-1 that was built without its date parts, and all nine steel and bronze versions are £1,350.

Hen & Mills Editorial · 2 min read · 11 August 2026

Pinion Pure Steel WH, a 38mm hand-wound watch with a white painted dial, applied indexes and an inset sub-seconds register — Image: Pinion Watch Company

Plenty of watches without a date still have one. The wheel is in there, running behind a dial nobody cut an aperture into. Pinion went the other way and had Sellita build the movement without it. The SW261-1 in the Pure turns up with no date mechanism and no date position on the crown, because Piers Berry asked for both to go.

The collection is nine watches now, and the lot despatches from the week of 10 August.

Pinion Pure Bronze KH on a strap, its khaki dial and bronze-plated brass hands warm against the bronze case — Image: Pinion Watch Company

A 38mm run at the 2014 original

Pinion calls the Pure a reimagining of the hand-wound it launched in 2014, this time in a 38mm case. That's 38mm across without the crown, 44mm lug to lug, 11mm deep with the glass, on a 20mm strap. The head is 52 grams, 60 with a leather strap on it. Not much else at this money stays under 45mm lug to lug, and lug to lug is the number I care about more than the diameter.

The crystal is high-domed sapphire with the anti-reflective coating on the inside only, so there's no coating on the outer face waiting to scuff off, and the dome gets to do its distorting thing around the edges. Water resistance is 100 metres, through a push-down crown with a double o-ring.

Pinion Pure Steel OR with an orange dial, showing the engine-turned effect in the inset sub-seconds register — Image: Pinion Watch Company

Bronze costs the same as steel

Pick the metal, then the colour. Steel comes in white, black, orange, blue and yellow. Bronze comes in black, blue, green and khaki. Every one is £1,350 including VAT, so the bronze adds nothing. Bronze usually carries a premium, for no better reason than that people will pay it.

The white steel and the khaki bronze are the new ones, and instead of trickling them out Pinion has put the whole range on a single despatch date. Dials are painted, with applied indexes and an inset sub-seconds register done in an engine-turned effect. The hands are brushed brass, plated a bronze colour that matches the bronze cases exactly and runs a touch warm against the steel. Super-LumiNova X1 goes on the indexes and the hour and minute hands.

Three positions, and an honest number

The movement is a Sellita SW261-1 M in gilt finish, striped, with blued screws, 23 jewels, 4Hz and about 45 hours of reserve. Pinion regulates each one in three positions, dial up, dial down and crown down, and quotes plus or minus 5 to 15 seconds a day.

The top of that figure is the interesting bit. Plenty of brands publish something tighter and quietly hope nobody puts the watch on a timegrapher. Fifteen seconds a day is what a well-regulated Sellita really holds, and printing the worst end of the range takes some nerve. Pinion says one person designs, assembles, regulates and tests the watch, which is easy to believe at nine models and wouldn't be at nine hundred.

One oddity on the steel model's page: the spec table lists the case as a bronze alloy and as stainless steel, which looks like a leftover from the bronze version. The steel one is steel.

At £1,350 you're choosing this over a Farer or a Christopher Ward with a Sellita inside and a bigger case. The Pure is smaller, thinner, does one job, and you wind it yourself.