News · Unimatic

Unimatic takes the 36mm Cinque into the woods with Todd Snyder

The Modello Cinque U5S-TS dresses Unimatic's compact 36mm case in a matte Forest Floor green, limited to 200 pieces at US$1,150.

Hen & Mills Editorial · 4 min read · 19 September 2026

• Unimatic and the American menswear label Todd Snyder have made the Modello Cinque U5S-TS on the 36mm case the brand calls its smallest to date.
• Its matte dusty green dial carries hands in the same colour, a grey seconds rail and a reverse lollipop seconds hand, over 300 metres of water resistance.
• Two hundred numbered pieces are sold at US$1,150 through the Todd Snyder online store and selected Todd Snyder retail locations.

Small watches stopped being a niche interest some time around the point when everybody realised their favourite vintage diver was 37mm and their modern one was 42, and the brands that moved early on that have done rather well out of it. Unimatic has been working the compact end since the Modello Cinque arrived, and the newest one keeps the 36mm case the brand describes as its smallest to date and puts a green on it that is the actual point of the exercise. It is the Modello Cinque U5S-TS, made with the American menswear label Todd Snyder.

Twenty-two millimetre lugs on a 36mm case

The case is the familiar Modello Cinque, 36mm across with 22mm lugs, fully brushed 316L stainless steel, and the one Unimatic describes as its smallest to date. Twenty-two millimetre lugs on a 36mm case is an aggressive ratio, close to two thirds of the diameter, and it is what stops a small watch looking dainty: the strap runs almost the full width of the case, so the whole thing reads as one continuous band rather than a coin with straps attached.

Water resistance is 300 metres, individually tested, which on a watch this size is close to comic overkill and is the sort of overkill Unimatic has always gone in for. There is no rotating bezel here to time anything with. What the rating buys is the freedom to stop thinking about it, which on a suede strap you will be taking off before the water anyway.

Dusty green, and hands that almost disappear

The dial is a matte dusty green, and the hour and minute hands are finished in the same colour, so they read as shapes rather than as markers until the light catches the lume. Unimatic calls the finish Forest Floor, and if you have ever looked down at leaf litter and taken a second to work out where one thing ends and the next begins, that is the effect being aimed for.

Working against it are a cool grey open seconds rail and grey dial trims, and a reverse lollipop seconds hand with a luminous tip. Super-LumiNova in the GL OR Light shade fills the indices. The result is a dial that is quiet in daylight and legible at night, which is a harder balance to strike than either extreme on its own.

A Sellita, a screw-down back and 41 hours

The movement is a Sellita SW200-1 b running at 28,800 beats an hour, with hacking seconds and a typical power reserve of 41 hours, and Unimatic states accuracy at plus or minus twelve seconds a day. Forty-one hours means this is a watch that wants wearing rather than resting: leave it in a drawer on Friday night and you will be setting it again before the weekend is out.

Twelve seconds a day is a wide tolerance and the brand is refreshingly unbothered about publishing it. I rather like that. A microbrand quoting a chronometer figure it cannot hold is worse than one quoting a real number you can plan around, and at this price nobody is buying a rate certificate.

The bits the collaboration actually changed

A 2.2mm double-domed sapphire crystal sits over the dial with anti-reflective coating on the inside face, and the case back is a screw-down piece engraved with both brands. The strap is sand-coloured suede, two-piece and quick-release, on brushed steel hardware signed by Unimatic. Suede against brushed steel is an unusual pairing for a watch rated to 300 metres and it is the clearest sign of who was in the room: this is a menswear label's idea of an outdoor watch rather than a dive shop's.

Each of the 200 pieces is individually numbered and arrives in a shockproof, waterproof case with a warranty card carrying a unique ID seal. The watch is made in Italy.

Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-TS pricing and availability

The U5S-TS is a limited edition of 200 pieces at a retail price of US$1,150, sold through the Todd Snyder online store and selected Todd Snyder retail locations. Unimatic has not published a separate Australian price, and buying one here means ordering from the United States.

Collaboration watches usually work in one direction, with the fashion partner supplying a logo and the watch brand supplying everything that matters. This one has gone the other way round, because the two decisions that define it, the colour and the suede, are both menswear decisions, and the watch underneath them is the Modello Cinque that Unimatic was already making. That is not a criticism. Getting a green right is genuinely hard, most brands reach for something closer to a highlighter, and the restraint of this one is worth the collaboration on its own. Two hundred people are going to end up very well camouflaged.