News · Breguet

Breguet finally gives the Marine a Breguet face

Hand-guilloché gold dials, a date at six and a two-counter chronograph layout arrive across twelve new Marine 5517 and 5527 references.

Hen & Mills Editorial · 4 min read · 26 September 2026

• Breguet has given its Marine 5517 and Marine Chronographe 5527 new dials, keeping the cases and movements while bringing the faces closer to the rest of its catalogue.
• Each dial is now gold and hand-guilloché with a Quai de l'Horloge pattern, with the date moved to six o'clock and a gold Breguet appliqué at twelve.
• Twelve references span white gold, rose gold and titanium, from US$26,400 for a titanium 5517 on rubber to US$93,900 for a gold 5527 on bracelet.

Of all the big Swiss houses, Breguet is the one whose sports watch I have always found hardest to love. Not because it was bad, but because it never quite looked like a Breguet: the Marine had the fluted caseband, and yet the dials felt borrowed from somewhere else. I suspect plenty of us had the same reaction and quietly moved on. So it is a pleasant surprise to report that the brand's newest update fixes the part I always struggled with, and it does it with the one skill Breguet is best known for. Say hello to the new Marine 5517 and Marine Chronographe 5527.

More than two centuries at sea

The naval connection is not marketing garnish. In 1815 Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy. That history is why the collection exists at all, and it is worth keeping in mind, because this release is about making the Marine look as though it comes from the same family as the rest of Breguet's catalogue.

The dial is the whole story

Breguet has kept the cases and movements as they were, and put its effort into the dials. Each is now made in gold and guilloché by hand with a pattern the brand calls Quai de l'Horloge, a fine engine-turned texture that catches light the way ripples do on a still harbour when the wind drops. At twelve o'clock there is a gold Breguet appliqué, the hands are Breguet's faceted apple style in gold, filled with lume, and the date has moved to six o'clock, where it balances the logo instead of interrupting the numerals.

There are nautical jokes hidden in the detail, and I mean that as a compliment. The tip of the seconds hand forms a B, a nod to the maritime flag for Bravo, and the crown guard is shaped to evoke waves.

Three metals, and a colour for each

There are six new versions in all, three for each model, and because each comes on either a rubber strap or a bracelet in matching metal, that makes twelve new references. On the Marine 5517, white gold comes with an ice blue dial, rose gold with black, and titanium with a subtle blue gradient. On the Chronographe 5527, both golds carry a blue gradient and the titanium gets a grey one.

I went back and forth on these. The white gold 5517 is the most obviously beautiful, but the rose gold with black is the one that made me stop, because black guilloché is hard to do without it looking like a hole in the watch, and here the texture keeps it alive. I would take the titanium chronograph with the grey gradient, though, which is the version that looks most like a tool.

The time-only 5517

The Marine 5517 measures 40mm across and 11.5mm thick, with 22mm between the lugs, a screwed crown and 100 metres of water resistance, which is as much diving as any gold Breguet is ever going to be asked to do. Inside is the automatic calibre 777A, running at 4Hz with 235 components, a flat silicon balance spring and a Breguet balance wheel, and a power reserve of 55 hours. Each movement is individually numbered and signed, and the gold rotor, visible through the sapphire caseback, is shaped after a ship's rudder.

The flyback 5527

The Chronographe 5527 is 42.3mm across and 13.9mm thick, with 24.5mm lugs and the same 100 metres. Its automatic calibre 582QA is a flyback, running at 4Hz with a silicon balance spring and an inverted silicon lever, and a power reserve of 48 hours. A large central hand counts elapsed seconds, and two counters set between three and nine o'clock show the chronograph minutes and the small seconds, which makes for a symmetrical, calm layout that suits the guilloché.

Rubber that matches the dial

The new rubber strap is patterned to echo the Quai de l'Horloge guilloché, which sounds like a gimmick until you see it, and then it just looks considered. It closes with a three-blade deployant clasp in the case metal. The bracelets, in white gold, rose gold or titanium, use a deployant clasp too.

What has not changed is worth saying plainly: the case sizes, the calibres and the water resistance are the same as before, and Breguet is still listing the earlier dials alongside the new ones. At US$26,400 for the titanium 5517 on rubber, that is a lot to ask for what is, in the end, a new face. But the face was always the problem, and this one finally looks like it belongs to the house whose name is attached to half the vocabulary of the classical dial.

Breguet Marine 5517 and Marine Chronographe 5527 pricing and availability

Breguet's recommended retail prices in the United States are as follows. Marine 5517: US$26,400 (titanium, rubber), US$30,000 (titanium, bracelet), US$48,900 (white or rose gold, rubber), US$80,300 (white or rose gold, bracelet). Marine Chronographe 5527: US$33,000 (titanium, rubber), US$36,600 (titanium, bracelet), US$59,400 (white or rose gold, rubber), US$93,900 (white or rose gold, bracelet).